Monday, August 6, 2018

All Around the UP

We left La Rose Retreat early in the morning of July 23, 2018, while the Calders were still asleep.  We had such a wonderful time!  We now had a day to dash around UP Michigan, trying to see as many gorgeous shorelines and waterfalls as we could fit in.
A highlight of our stay with Elise's family was eating hot "pasties," the hand pies brought to Michigan by the Cornish miners.  There were advertisements for them across UP.
We passed through Christmas, which uses the Christmas theme throughout the town.
We were devastated to learn that Santa's Workshop was going out of business.


We hiked to the beautiful Munising waterfall.


We paused at several spots along the Pictured Rocks National Seashore, bordering Lake Superior.  The lake is so huge that it does seem like a sea, with its own tides and views across the water that include no shore on the other side.

We also hiked to Miners Falls, another glorious spot.  When I saw that neither Munising Falls nor Miners Falls were listed among the top 50 waterfalls in UP, I decided I needed to come back some day to see what the even more gorgeous falls looked like!

We wished we had time to take the boat tour along the Pictured Rocks National Seashore.  The best view of the panels of red-striped rocks is from the sea.
We hurried on to Whitefish Point and its Shipwreck Museum.  The coast between Munising and Whitefish Point is one of the most treacherous areas of the Great Lakes for shipwrecks.  The museum documented many of those wrecks.




One of the most notorious wrecks was that of the Edward Fitzgerald, in the 1960s.  The ship got caught in a monster storm and disappeared just a few miles from Whitefish Point.
Driftwood and rocks made abstract patterns on the shore.
We drove over the Mackinaw Bridge that connects UP to the rest of Michigan.  It is five miles long--one of the longest spans in North America.

And we took a boat to Mackinaw Island.
Mackinaw Island feels like a time warp.  No cars are allowed, so tourists and residents travel by horse and bike.  The wood buildings date back to the 1800s.  Fort Mackinaw was overrun by the British during the War of 1812.






The Mackinaw Hotel is an elegant place where a coat and tie are still required for dinner and the cheapest rooms are $300 to $400 per night.
We toured the island in a horse cart.

There have been residents on Mackinaw Island, living and dead, since the early 1800s.
This natural arch was one of the highlights of our tour.
We returned to the city past old Fort Mackinaw, keeping watch over the Great Lakes.

Buying and eating fudge is a tradition on Mackinaw Island.  Dave and I kept that tradition with cheer.


On our boat ride back to St. Ignace, the skipper took us under the Mackinaw Bridge.

We saw ads for "whitefish" across the UP.  We stopped at a beachfront restaurant in St. Ignace to taste that popular dish.


 And then we drove back to our beachfront motel at Munising, where we watched the city lights across a bay of Lake Superior.

Saturday, August 4, 2018

Partying in UP Michigan with the Calders

Ryan and Elise Calder (second and third from left) were married in Princeton, New Jersey, last October, at the home of Ryan's father, my brother Kent.  Elise's family, who live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, hosted a party celebrating Ryan's and Elise's marriage on the weekend of July 20, 2018.  Ryan and Elise invited Dave and me, and we had a delightful time.  We stayed two nights at the La Rose Retreat near Baraga, Michigan, and attended a wedding party there that was a family reunion, with Elise's many aunts, uncles, and cousins attending from as far away as Ohio and Tennessee.  Best of all, though, was having lots of time to talk with Kent and his whole family--Kent's wife, Toshiko; Ryan and Elise; and Kent's daughter Mari, with her husband, John Montague, and their two little boys, Cornelius and Francis.  Kent's family will have two more members this fall, when Mari and Elise have their baby daughters.

Elise and her mother, Deb, showed us the lush grounds of La Rose.  A large, grassy expanse leads down to the rocky shores of Lake Superior.  Elise grew up nearby, on the Keweenaw Peninsula, which is the only county in the United States where more than 50% of the residents have Finnish heritage.  Elise and her family are from Finland.  They told us how the people in their neighborhood still love their saunas and other Finnish traditions.  Elise's relatives include many handsome and beautiful blonds.

 We talked long into the night, after the whole family arrived on Friday.  Deb served us a supper of "pasties", the hand pies brought to the area by miners from Cornwall, England.  Ryan said that there is a definite division of opinion as to whether a pastie should be served with ketchup or gravy.  Elise's family are ketchup-favorers, and Ryan doesn't dare assert that he prefers gravy!  Cornelius and Francis danced for us, as Kent flipped on and off the lights to create a disco effect.  For a finale, we all sang "The Star-Spangled Banner."
On Saturday, as Ryan and Elise finished preparations for the party, Toshiko joined Dave and me for a mine tour.  The Keweenaw Peninsula is known as "Copper Country" because, beginning in the 1840's, it supplied much of the copper for the US's industrial revolution.  The mines have closed now, since it is cheaper to mine copper in open pits than deep in the ground.  The Quincy Mine is still open for visitors, and we went inside it.
 The building housing the mine shafts sits on a hill near Lake Superior.
 The wildflowers were large and bright-colored, flourishing in the long days this far north.
 We donned hard hats to descend into the mine.
 A docent showed us how the equipment worked that took the miners 1000 feet or more into the earth.
 We saw the huge crane that lifted miners and ore out of the mine.
 We rode on a narrow gauge railroad car to the modern-day mine opening.

 Copper ore creates spots of green in the dark brown rocks.
Tom, our guide, spoke with passion and expertise about the 100-year history of the mine, including the equipment and techniques that the miners used.

 When we returned to La Rose, the party had begun.  We ate appetizers by the pool, as little kids floated by on rafts, and we then had great barbecue under a white tent on the front lawn.  "Fitzgerald's," a restaurant up the Peninsula, delivered fine smoked pork.

Elise's uncle then laid out the bean bags, took $1 bets, and divided us into teams.  The bean bag tournament was underway!
It was almost as much fun to watch as to participate.  Actually, more fun to watch, for people like me who couldn't hit the hole with the bean bags even once.
 Elise's father, Richard, was a serious contender.  He was my partner, and we won the first round on the strength of Richard's skills.
 Kent and I competed on separate teams.  Kent was a good player, making a number of points.
I threw the bean bags sideways and straight up in the air.  I definitely need to practice before revealing my bean bag skills in public again.  David suprised all of us by being a star bean bag thrower!  Ryan said he heard Elise's relatives murmuring about what a good bean bag thrower Ryan's uncle was.

Ryan is a great organizer and also a charming host.  He wandered among the guests, making sure everyone had a drink and someone to talk with, and he took pictures of the party.  Cornelius and Francis ran about on the vast lawn, under the careful eye of their father, John.
Mari mentioned how glad her family is that Ryan married Elise.  In addition to being bright and interesting, with her own Ph.D in sociology from Berkeley to match Ryan's, Elise is also thoughtful and kind.

With a baby due in October, Mari wasn't up to chasing little kids.  John had the job under control.  John and Mari both have law degrees from Berkeley, and John works for a large Washington, D.C. firm as a tax lawyer.
I could tell how smart Cornelius was when I first met him, as a two-year-old.  He touched a bead on my necklace and told me it was a sphere!  After quickly sizing up my age, gender, and evident close relationship to his family, he called me, "Grandma."  Cornelius is very creative, putting on presentations for his family.  He also knows all about history, and regularly visits the Smithsonian museums, which are within walking distance from John and Mari's home in Washington, D.C.
Francis is adorable, full of fun and mischief.  He made a collection of sticks as the adults tossed their bean bags, and he had no remorse about flipping Cornelius out of a comfortable hammock.  What's that in his hands?
Kent and Toshiko obviously adore their grandchildren, and are adored in return.
What could be more fun than a weekend party with family and friends on the shores of Lake Superior?