On the last night of our trip with Mike and Camille, September 7, 2019, we stopped by The Abyssinian night club, where we ate
one last Ethiopian dinner and watched a program of Ethiopian song and
dance. Our two drivers joined us (far left and far right), as did
Desale, the owner of Grand Ethiopian Tours (next to me).
Bayuh introduced us to Haile Mariam, sitting at the next table. He joined us for a photo (to the right of Desale). Haile is a major Ethiopian celebrity who won
two gold medals at the Sydney and Atlanta Olympics in the 10,000 meter
race. He now owns a chain of luxury
hotels, including the “Haile” in Aber Minch, where we spent a night, and the
“Haile” in Shashmene, where we ate lunch on September 7. Desale and Haile need each other. Haile provides luxury hotels for Desale's wealthy tourists, and Desale fills up Haile's hotels!

Finally, it was time to leave, so Camille could catch her Ethiopian Airlines flight to D.C. via Ireland. Michael came back with us to the Jupiter Hotel, to wait in the lobby until a 10 p.m. shuttle took him to the airport for his Turkish Airlines flight to New York via Istanbul. Dave and I went to bed at the Jupiter, with mixed feelings. Due to a scheduling mix-up, we had one more day in Ethiopia. We were ready to go home with Mike and Camille, but there were also more adventures to be enjoyed.

On Sunday morning, September 8, 2019, I dragged out my black skirt from the bottom of my suitcase
to wear to church. After a few phone
calls and circling the neighborhood, Bayuh led us to one of the four LDS
chapels in Ethiopia. Church supposedly
started at 9, but when we arrived at 9:15, the chapel was locked and small
groups of young people sat on benches or stood in the courtyard. We chatted with an Ethiopian computer
scientist who had just completed his schooling in Norway, and the Norwegian
girl who followed him home. Both were
Church members, converted in Norway.

A cab arrived, depositing a sturdy, very dark man and an equally sturdy, very dark woman. We introduced ourselves and learned that the man was originally from Congo/Brazzaville, but is now working for the Church in South Africa, supervising seminary and institute programs across the continent. The woman is from Uganda, the headquarters of the mission of which Ethiopia is a part. The man and woman had spent the week in Addis, trying to organize seminary, institute, and Young Adult programs. I remembered Mother saying that the Ethiopians are sensitive about color, with some light-skinned Ethiopians from the north feeling superior to the dark-skinned Ethiopians from the south. I wondered how well all the Africans of different colors and cultures mix in LDS churches.
I wandered around the church compound, examining the Ethiopian district headquarters (behind me) and the outdoor church basketball court.
The branch president finally arrived, and Church services started at 10. “The branch president was traveling,” a young member told us. We met the four missionaries assigned to this branch, all from Utah, who explained that Ethiopia is a tough mission, particularly since they are not trained in the local language, Amharic, and many Ethiopians have received inaccurate information about the Church. We heard the missionaries speak during Sacrament Meeting, accompanied by Amharic translators from the congregation, and we learned that the man from the Congo was an Area Seventy. He spoke with power. I wondered what he thought of the branch president who was an hour late at starting church!

The woman from Uganda shivered. She couldn’t believe Ethiopia was so cold! She speculated that the reason the Church is growing so slowly in Ethiopia is because Ethiopians don’t speak English as well as Ugandans do. “In Uganda, the first words you speak to your baby are in English, and families practice speaking English at home.” I realized that, in our two weeks in Ethiopia, we had received only a taste of what Africa is really like, including the extreme differences in cultures across the continent.
After Church, we drove with Bayuh and our driver, Mosi, to
Debra Zeit, a resort town an hour away. The town used to be called "Bishoftu", and I remembered it from my years in Ethiopia as a child.
Bayuh
escorted us to the Ethiopian buffet at the Kuriftu Resort, a sister hotel to the
elegant lakeside resort we stayed in on Lake Tana.
The food was delicious, but even more memorable were all the partyers—a cross-section of Ethiopia’s upper class and elite. We saw many families (Bayah confirmed that the Ethiopians are particularly family-oriented), and many beautiful Muslim women in gauzy headscarves and flowing robes, as well as Ethiopian Orthodox women in their flashy finest.
Mike told us, earlier in our trip, that Fanta is the most-drunk soda in the world. It was originally owned by an Italian company but is now owned by Coca-Cola. Pineapple Fanta is definitely not a drink I could find in the U.S.!
From our lunch table we watched kayakers slowly paddle around the lake.
After lunch, we wandered through elegant shops surrounding the resort, selling leather bags and notebooks, and cotton scarves and dresses. We bought a jar of Ethiopian honey and a statue of a Mursi woman with a ceramic disk in her mouth.
We also peeked into a big, new Ethiopian attraction—a water park. After visiting so many impoverished, traditional villages in Southern Ethiopia, it was quite stunning to see how the modern, wealthy Ethiopians from Addis lived.
After extricating
ourselves from a traffic jam in the Kuriftu Resort parking lot, we went with Bayuh to two more
crater lakes, besides the one at the resort. The first was natural,
with few visitors.
We took a boat ride across the lake, with Bayuh identifying grebes, Egyptian ducks, and other birds. We then walked along the shore for a while before riding the boat back to the other shore.
Poinsettias grew wild along the shore.
As we drove back through Debra Zeit to Addis, we saw another LDS Church. It seemed more elegant than the one in Addis. Bayuh dropped us off at the Addis airport, and t
here were hugs all
around. “I was honored to be a guide for
such a fine family,” Bayuh said. We promised to write glowing reports of Bayuh and Grand Ethiopian Tours on TripAdvisor, and I did that as soon as I got home. Since my return to SLC, I have received calls from two Salt Lakers planning trips to Ethiopia with Grand Ethiopian Tours, and I have emphasized what a wonderful time we had.