Sunday, August 30, 2009

And your next transfer is...Gander!

To reach Gander in time for 10 a.m. Sacrament Meeting, we left Trinity before 7 a.m. The water in the bay was so still and clear that we could see perfect reflections of buildings and trees.
We traveled northwest, along the Trans Canada Highway with its warning signs about moose crossing the road...and we passed a moose who looked like he was seriously considering the idea.

We drove through Terra Nova National Park, with its beautiful inlets and rushing rivers.



Finally, we arrived at the Gander LDS branch. The building was unprepossessing in the extreme. At Sacrament Meeting, there were two members, two missionaries, and the two of us. It was a very spiritual meeting, despite the small numbers. We're taking the missionaries to breakfast tomorrow morning, since they didn't feel good about eating at a restaurant on Sunday. "We've been telling people not to do that," they said.

After Church, we drove to Twillingate, on the north coast of Newfoundland. As we drove into town, a sign proclaimed, "Iceberg capital of the world." In the spring and early summer, icebergs float past the town from the Arctic.


We loved the quaint houses...
...boats...
...and spectacular scenery...



...beautiful even in the rain and fog washed in by the tail end of Hurricane Danny.
We didn't stop at the "Newfie Fog Cafe"....
...but we enjoyed rummaging through a craft store and tourist information center, and talking with the Newfoundlanders gathered there.
It sold a "field guide to Icebergs of Newfoundland and Labrador" and handmade caps, sweaters, mittens, quilts, and toys made by Newfoundland women in the winter. We asked what else Newfoundland women do to make money in the winter, and were told that some go to Alberta, along with Newfoundland men. The men work in the oil camps and the women help as waitresses and cleaning ladies. Newfoundland now has three offshore drilling sites of its own, and is trying to shift from a fish economy to an oil economy.

The store had a new product--"puffin poop," aka yogurt-covered raisins. There was also "moose droppings"--chocolate-covered nuts.
Back in Gander, as we searched for a laundromat, we came upon a "curling club" and a hockey team practicing at the community center. Gretta talked with the coach for the hockey team. His son was at a prep school in Chicago on a hockey scholarship!

Then, Gretta washed clothes while Dave checked out the Gander International Airport and the Aviation Museum. It was fair recompense after a week of Dave's driving. During 1938, Gander had the largest airport in the world, a critical refueling spot for turboprop planes flying between North America and Europe, before the jets arrived. Gretta remembers stopping at Gander in the middle of the night, when she was a little girl on a flight between New York and London.

Gander had other moments of glory, as East Germans and Cubans defected in large numbers during the Communist years, as their planes refueled in Gander. Then, on 9/11, 7,000 international air passengers were stranded in Gander, when the U.S. shut down its airspace and flights headed for the East Coast scrambled to find somewhere outside of the U.S. to land.

2 comments:

Camille said...

Wow! What an amazing time. I am so impressed with the effort you put forth to get to church. Definitely setting good examples for the grandchildren! I guess this is a destination for the well traveled. I love how you really get to know the culture and people, like stopping in at the rec center. Who does that on vacation? Thank you for your never ending example of curiosity and adventure!

Jonny said...

For the traveler that has been everywhere, I guess there is always Gander! It actually looks like you guys are having a great time. Keep the postings coming.