I've marked, very roughly, our trip on a map of the Western Balkans.
Our local guide, on this first day of our Balkans tour, was a cute blond who looked nothing like the stereotypes of matrons of the Communist era. 
She walked us along Skadkarlija Street, which used to be known as the "Gypsy District." This was the bohemian area where Belgrade writers and musicians gathered in traditional katanas. Katanas were originally caravan stops during Ottoman times. 
The other highlight of the day was our visit to the St. Sava Church. It is the third largest Orthodox Church in the world. The largest is in Romania and the second largest is in St. Petersburg, Russia. Throughout our time in the Balkans, we visited one Orthodox church after another, one mosque after another, and one fortress after another. I never tired of any of them. 
The walls and ceilings were covered with gold and paintings of Christian saints and apostles, with Christ at the center.
The artistry was overwhelming.
Downstairs, in the crypt, the art was even more ornate.
Churchgoers prayed before sacred icons and even kissed them.
An Orthodox priest visited the church while we were there, accompanied by two very stylish Serbian women.
There was a display, by the wall of the fortress, of tanks and cannons from Yugoslavia's and Serbia's many wars. The Germans bombed Belgrade heavily at the beginning of World War II, and then NATO bombed Belgrade again in the 1990s to stop the Serbian massacres of people in Kosovo and Bosnia.
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